The Secret of Hair Oiling. How Do You Choose Oils?

Hair oiling is not only modern but also a very effective and gentle way of caring for our hair. Since natural oils have become such a popular method of hair and scalp care, one of the most important questions that users ask themselves is: What oil should I choose for oiling my hair type? Choosing the ideal oil from almost 100 oils available on the market is not exactly twice as easy. Below is an overview to help you figure out which oils to use for which hair type.

It is said that more than 100 different natural oils are used in cosmetics. An interesting fact is that a large part of them is also used daily in cooking. Examples include sunflower oil, corn oil, or rice oil. However, those to be used in hair care must be cold pressed, unprocessed, organic, and preferably certified as well. In addition, vegetable butter is also commonly used. What are these butters? These include oils that have a solid consistency at room temperature and change their state only when heated.

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What oil should I start with?

With hundreds of oils, you have to choose the one that is best for your hair. No wonder the process is so stressful.

What oil will help us on our hair-oiling journey?

It must be tailored to the porosity of your hair, come from a reliable source, be pure and unprocessed, and also be cold-pressed.

Hair oiling and hair porosity

We distinguish three types of hair and the same number of categories of hair oils. If you have an overview of the properties of both, it will not be a problem for you to match the oils to a certain type of hair. Hair can have different porosity, which indicates the degree of its destruction.

How do I determine hair porosity?

One method is observation under a microscope. Fortunately, there are methods to help you determine porosity in the comfort of your own home.

Low porosity hair – has a tightly bound cuticle and is difficult to manage

Hair with medium porosity: the cuticle is more open and the hair is rougher

Hair with high porosity: the cuticle has gaps and holes, and the hair is dull, dry, and often damaged
Oils consist of esters, fatty acids, vitamins, phospholipids, and minerals; they can be divided according to their properties. They can also be divided according to absorbability, which depends on the size of the particles and the content of fatty acids in the oil.

Penetrating oils contain the most saturated fatty acids

semi-penetrating oils have a high content of monounsaturated fatty acids (omega 7 and omega 9)
non-penetrating oils contain mainly polyunsaturated fatty acids (omega 3 and omega 6)
Penetrating oils are easily absorbed into the hair because they have small particles. These are mainly butter with saturated oils, such as shea butter, babassu oil, and cupuacu butter, which contain oils with low hair porosity.

Slightly larger particles are characteristic of semi-unsaturated oils with unsaturated fatty acids omega 7 and omega 9. This group includes macadamia oil, argan oil, marula oil, passion fruit oil, and jojoba oil. These are the ingredients of Nanoil oil for medium-porosity hair.

Large particles can adapt to defects in the structure of the hair. They are typical of impermeable oils with omega 3 and omega 6 unsaturated fatty acids, such as evening primrose oil, cottonseed oil, and avocado oil, which combine to create Nanoil high porosity hair oil.

Which hair oil should I choose?

If you know the porosity of your hair, it is very easy to consciously match the right oil to it. Therefore, hair oiling brings much better results and reduces the risk of frizz. Read the instructions on which oil to choose.

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Oil for blonde and light hair?

Blonde hair is known to contain very little melanin and is naturally thinner and weaker. Especially if they are chemically bleached. Therefore, when oiling blonde hair, light, well-absorbed oils should be used that do not burden such fragile hair. It is worth using macadamia oil (penetrating), marula oil, or jojoba oil. Blondes who are happy with their color should avoid using Indian oils (amla and brahmi) as well as castor oil; these have darkening properties.

Oil for curly hair?

Curly hair is often diverse in its structure; in place of curls, the strands are much thinner and more prone to breakage. By nature, they have increased porosity, so an oil with high porosity will be ideal; for example, grape seed oil, sunflower oil, sweet almond oil, linseed oil, neem oil, avocado oil, or hazelnut oil.

Oil for frizzy hair?

The frizz problem affects everyone who has medium- to low-porosity hair. In this case, an effectively chosen oil will take care not only of frizz but also of smoothing the hair and ensuring effective hydration. The following oils have such properties: linseed, olive, and jojoba. Taming unruly hair and ensuring softness is possible through heat oiling and using an oil spray during the day.

Oil for colored hair?

Coloring has a very negative effect on the keratin structure of the hair. Colors cause serious damage to the hair, so the oil for this type of hair must act in-depth and regenerate, strengthen, and protect the hair from further damage. The following oils are most often recommended for colored hair: avocado oil, grape seed oil, sweet almond oil, and argan oil.

Oil for bleached hair?

Bleaching your hair, just like coloring it, robs your hair of important nutrients and hydration and also damages and weakens your hair. Discolored strands require deep regeneration and strengthening. In this case, it is good to reach for argan, cotton, or sunflower oil.

Hair-loss oil?

Hair loss is natural as long as not too much hair is shed. Hair oiling can suppress hair loss as it strengthens the bulbs and regulates the functioning of the scalp and sebaceous glands. Oils recommended for hair loss problems are castor oil, black seed oil, and cedarwood oil (obtained from Siberian pine, not an essential oil).

Oil for thinning hair?

This type of hair requires strengthening and providing volume along with hydration and lightness, thanks to which it does not weigh the hair down in any way. Fine hair, for example, naturally light hair, is worth treating with oils that absorb well. You can choose from the following oils: olive oil, safflower oil, linseed oil, or macadamia oil.

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Oil for split ends?

The ends are the parts of the hair that are most exposed to the harmful effects of external factors in our environment, such as high temperature, etc. They need effective protection. Argan oil or cottonseed oil will perfectly protect the ends of the hair and will also act as thermal protection.

Oil for wavy hair?

Like curly hair, wavy strands are often subject to frizz and breakage. In this case, oil is needed that highlights the waves, is easily absorbed, prevents frizz, and does not burden the strands. Jojoba, almond, or linseed oil are best suited for such a task.

Oil for dehydrated hair?

Almost any oil will work well for dehydrated strands, as oils act as natural emollients. Thus, they protect the strands from loss of hydration and maintain the correct level of hydration. The best oils are macadamia, sunflower, almond, avocado, and wheat germ oil.

Oil for oily hair?

Oily oils don’t seem to be recommended for oily hair. They regulate the activity of the sebaceous glands, clean the skin, and prevent the excessive secretion of sebum that causes the scalp to become oily. In such a case, the best solution is to rub the scalp with castor or cedar oil.

Dandruff hair oil?

In most cases, the fight against dandruff is uneven, mainly because there are different causes. However, it all starts within the skin, which functions abnormally. Dandruff hair oils are a great alternative to anti-dandruff shampoos. Favorites are cedar oil, castor oil, burdock oil, or rosemary oil.

Oil for brittle hair?

The brittleness of hair is mainly related to its increased porosity. In the case of dry and brittle hair, it can be worthwhile to reach for oils recommended for hair with medium and high porosity. These will give them elasticity and smooth the strands. For example, evening primrose oil, corn oil, wheat germ oil, and argan oil.

Hair straightening and ironing oil?

Ironing and straightening your hair can only be harmful if you don’t give it enough protection. The best oil for straightening hair is natural argan oil (which provides heat protection, regeneration, and hydration), as well as passion fruit oil or marula oil.

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Oil for damaged hair?

Damaged hair has high porosity and oils are suitable for them, which ensure comprehensive regeneration, strengthening, hydration, smoothing, and restoration of the damaged keratin structure. High-porosity hair oils recommended for severely damaged strands are safflower oil, grape seed oil, evening primrose oil, cottonseed oil, or corn oil.

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